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The Era of Hero Ingredients in Beauty Hasn’t Even Begun

Published July 25, 2024
Published July 25, 2024
Sora Shimazaki via Pexels

In skincare, as in life, we need heroes.The real deal, that is. Heroes with superpowers who rise to the occasion when the going gets tough, who inspire confidence, and deliver against the odds.In skincare, “hero” means one-of-a-kind ingredients that dazzle with breakthrough innovation, unrivaled benefits, and true clinical differentiation. They are standouts in a sea of sameness.Where are our hero ingredients?Beauty marketers would have us believe that decades-old vitamin C, niacinamide, retinol, and their cohort are the hero ingredients we need; the pinnacle of skincare formulation. They proudly proclaim higher concentrations and endless ingredient remixes as proof of newness and R&D advancement. But when was the last time you saw true ingredient differentiation in skincare? While it’s certainly true that these ingredients are proven (and now stabilized), touting them as “innovative” is akin to claiming that the cure for scurvy, citrus fruits, is a new-fangled invention.Take vitamin C, discovered over a hundred years ago, and the first vitamin to be chemically produced. Boosting the concentration of vitamin C to 15 or 20% in formulations or combining it with niacinamide in various guises does not innovation make. Is it any wonder that dermatologists urge building tolerance over time to these high-concentration ingredients? (Meanwhile sensitive skin can dream on).Nor do formulations featuring a mixed bag of cultivated ingredients achieve hero status. Just like the swashbuckling hero in classic adventures, true ingredient heroes stand alone in their mission to promote and champion healthy skin.

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